Day 4- La Spezia, Italy – The Cinque Terre That Almost Was The Ozark Wanderers

Afternoon light over the Mediterranean — the perfect sea day view from our Crown Loft Suite.

Trip Report: Oasis of the Seas – Mediterranean Cruise 2024

La Spezia, Italy — a small port city tucked between rugged cliffs and turquoise water — serves as the gateway to the world-famous Cinque Terre National Park. Most cruisers dream of this stop: pastel villages clinging to cliffsides, terraced vineyards, and that perfect Instagram shot over the Ligurian Sea.

Our plan was simple: hop the local train, explore a few of the Cinque Terre villages, enjoy lunch by the water, and return to the ship before sunset.

Port of La Spezia, Italy — *The port of La Spezia, Italy*

When the Express Train Isn’t So Express

La Spezia itself was once a quiet naval town, but now serves as the gateway to Cinque Terre for most cruise passengers — and for us, the starting point of a travel story that didn’t quite go to plan.

We boarded what we thought was the Cinque Terre Express, only to discover (too late) that we’d hopped on the express to Genova instead. The next thing we knew, we were speeding past the villages we’d hoped to explore — a blur of cliffs and sea from the wrong side of the window.

*Genova Brignole railway station in Genoa, Italy.*

Eventually, we circled back and decided to make the most of it with a stop in Vernazza. It turned out to be a happy accident. We found a small café overlooking the harbor, ordered pasta and wine, and watched boats drift in and out. It might not have been the day we planned, but it was the kind of detour that makes travel memorable.

Cinque Terre National Park

The Cinque Terre National Park — literally “Five Lands” — is made up of five centuries-old fishing villages: Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso al Mare. They were once isolated from one another, accessible only by sea or steep footpaths until the 19th century, when the railway line connected them.

The region became Italy’s first national park in 1999 and a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its stunning balance between natural beauty and human craftsmanship. The stone terraces you see covering the hillsides were built by hand over 1,000 years ago. Even today, no machines can replace the work of local farmers who maintain them.

Technically, this was our first UNESCO World Heritage Site of the trip — though our glimpse of Cinque Terre was limited to Vernazza, a beautiful lunch, and a few very crowded train platforms. Still,we checked a box off our list and hope to have many more in our future

For the more adventurous, Cinque Terre isn’t just about trains. A network of coastal trails connects all five villages, offering incredible sea views and vineyard-covered hillsides. The most famous is the Sentiero Azzurro (Blue Trail), which links Riomaggiore to Monterosso. Some sections close due to weather or maintenance, so it’s always best to check conditions in advance on the Cinque Terre National Park website.

From Vernazza, we continued to Manarola, but the crowds were overwhelming. We couldn’t even get down from the platform — it was shoulder-to-shoulder, the kind of crowd that makes you instantly appreciate a sea day. After one look, we decided to head back to La Spezia and call it a day in the Suite Lounge, where the air conditioning and quiet views were the perfect reward.

Europe in September 2024: The Summer That Never Ended

Every local we met said the same thing — “It’s never been this busy this late.” The summer of 2024 brought a record-breaking number of tourists to Europe, and by September, the crowds still hadn’t thinned. Lines, packed trains, and fully booked excursions became the norm. We had expected a slower, shoulder-season pace, but instead found ourselves shoulder-to-shoulder with travelers from around the world. It was beautiful chaos — a reminder that even in the most scenic places, patience (and flexibility) are essential travel skills.

Reflections

We spent most of the day standing on train platforms and laughing at our own missteps, but somehow it still felt worth it. Travel doesn’t always have to go right to be memorable. Sometimes the best days are the ones that remind you to slow down, laugh, and enjoy wherever you end up — even if that place wasn’t on your itinerary.

By the time we returned to the ship, the sun was setting over the harbor, and we raised a glass in the Suite Lounge to what we started calling “The Cinque Terre That Almost Was.” Tomorrow we head to Rome!